I own a Fisher & Paykel WA80T65GW1 washing machine and the motor control module has recently died. After some troubleshooting I'm fairly certain that I've narrowed down the issue to a blown transformer. I'd like to replace the transformer but the issue I'm having is that I can't figure out the transformer part number or spec. There's a print on the transformer of FT 101-EE16-063-C but searching this online doesn't yield any relevant results.
I've contacted F&P support but their recommendation is to replace the entire module and from what I'm told they have no information regarding specific parts on the module. The CS rep also said I'd need to be an affiliated service tech (or something along those lines) in order to get access to the circuit diagram and other specs for the module. The part number for the motor control module in question is 421297NAP which has been superseded by 429213NAP.
Is there any way to get information on the transformer (or info to find a suitable replacement) or will I just have to replace the entire thing?
Thanks in advance.
Is there any way to get information on the transformer (or info to find a suitable replacement) or will I just have to replace the entire thing?
It's probably safer and quicker to replace the whole thing. If the transformer is gone there is a good chance something downstream has gone pop as well.
No. Appliance repair such as a washing machine is NOT a licensed trade.
Might be different in NSW than in the State of Victoria.
Thanks to everyone for their input.
If the transformer is gone there is a good chance something downstream has gone pop as well.
This is certainly a good point. I'd be hoping for the best by replacing the transformer.
transformers are one of the really custom parts in most electronics these days aside from mask programmed microcontrollers
In my experience, if the transformer is really dead then short of stripping it down yourself and re-winding it you are pretty much out of luck
Thank you for taking the time to write a detailed response. As interesting as it seems, I think that rewinding the transformer is a bridge too far for me.
I'll be doing the prudent thing by ordering the replacement module today.
Post a picture of the Transformer and associated board, including the underside
Thanks for your reply. I've already ordered the new board but if you're still interested then here are the photos of the board and some closeups of the transformer.
U241 next to the transformer looks like it has a hole blown through one end. The corner with the T241 marking looks like it has that lovely burned semiconductor residue and there is obvious soot on the corner of the transformer. I'd wager if you pulled that transformer out you'll probably find it intact. The semiconductors surrounding it, not so much.
Edit : Based on the part number on U241 its one of these : http://images.100y.com.tw/pdf
So yeah I'd say the transformer is probably ok, but the switcher has had its backside blown out. Does the side of U241 that is closest to the transformer only have 3 pins?
U241 next to the transformer looks like it has a hole blown through one end.
Does the side of U241 that is closest to the transformer only have 3 pins?
You're right, there is a small hole on the top left of U241 and there's black soot all over the underside of the transformer, concentrated on the left side. U241 also does have 3 pins on the side closest to the transformer, though it's hard to tell at first because it appears as though the left most pin has completely disintegrated. The pin configuration also matched the PDF link that you posted. The only difference being that the part number says LNK624 as opposed to LNK623 (can't see the rest due to the damage/hole).
Considering all of this I'd say there's a great chance that you're right about the transformer. I've uploaded couple more images so that you can see what I'm talking about. Also, thanks for your response.
the part number says LNK624
https://au.mouser.com/Search/Refine?Keyword=lnk624
I couldn't see the last digit on the pics, so I figured I'd just give you the family datasheet. Since the datasheet has a reference circuit, I'd start there.
I'd hazard a guess that's not the only bit damaged, but without getting into it you'd never really know. If it were me I'd pull the transformer and give it some simple continuity tests to see if was vaguely what might be expected (ie not shorted between windings and all windings continuous). If it was, then I'd start by replacing the switcher and checking the other semis around the primary side of the circuit.
If this is your first rodeo with an SMPS and you are not absolutely certain which end of a soldering iron is which, I'd honestly buy a new board. Alternatively find an old school electronics tech, take him the board and explain the fault.
If you do decide to tackle this, head over to the EEVBlog forum to get some advice from people who know which end of the soldering iron to hold and can explain how to safely fault find this stuff without attracting the attention of the fun police.
Off-line SMPS circuits are their own special kind of witchcraft and things can unravel quite quickly if you get it wrong. Nothing quite as deflating as flipping a switch and hearing $700 worth of MOSFETs die with a loud and anti-climactic "phut" because you forgot to plug it into the dim-bulb tester.
I'd hazard a guess that's not the only bit damaged, but without getting into it you'd never really know.
Off-line SMPS circuits are their own special kind of witchcraft and things can unravel quite quickly if you get it wrong. Nothing quite as deflating as flipping a switch and hearing $700 worth of MOSFETs die with a loud and anti-climactic "phut" because you forgot to plug it into the dim-bulb tester.
Since I'd already ordered the new board by this stage and knowing that there's a chance there could be more than just a chip damaged it was easier and safer to just discard the old board.
I received the new module today and installed it without any issues. In case anybody is curious it's a fairly straightforward process, the only difference with the previous one is that there's a new method of grounding. A new ground wire comes in the box with easy to follow installation instructions. Once it's all plugged in it's necessary to program the board with the size of your washing machine. There's an instruction page that comes in the box and this also is a fairly straightforward and easy process. When this was done the washing machine worked normally once again.
Special thanks to fnarfbargle for the extensive replies, it was greatly appreciated.
You're right, there is a small hole on the top left of U241 and there's black soot all over the underside of the transformer,
Common failure , seen it hundreds of times
Don’t know why though
As you already have the new board you would have noticed the colour has changed as it’s an updated version
Very common for those yellow boards to fail so they have obviously made some changes to its design
Have a 9yo F&P WL80T65CW2 Aquasmart 2 that suddenly died last weekend.
Motor controller is a 421300NAP, and the LNK624 U241 had blown it's top as seems pretty common with these
I couldn't see any other damage to the transformer or surrounding components, and a $2 LNK625DG from Element14 had it up and running again. Was easier to install if the transformer was desoldered first
Looks like I will have to repair the same fault! Quick check of the 47uf/25v electros C206 + the 3 others shows loss of capacity. Designed failure/cheap manufacture cost?
Regard
ps had to order min 10 LNK624DGS need one williamgoodward@gmail.com
Looks like I will have to repair the same fault! Quick check of the 47uf/25v electros C206 + the 3 others shows loss of capacity. Designed failure/cheap manufacture cost?
Cheap electrolytic caps have a lifetime less than 10,000 hours. They only cost a few cents each to manufacture, that's why they're used everywhere.